We always get asked for recommendations for books about surfing, so we thought we’d create this little list of our favourites to get you started!
Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer’s Quest to Find Zen on the Seaby Jaimal Yogis A classic coming-of-age story meets spiritual quest. A young Jaimal Yogis swaps suburban life in California for surf, spirituality and serenity in Hawaii, hopping between college in New York and Buddhist monasteries in France along the way. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William FinneganThe captivating memoir of The New Yorker journalist and surfer William Finnegan about his world wanderings in the 60s across the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond.She Surf: The Rise of Female Surfing by Lauren L. HillPossibly the most important piece of literature on women’s contribution to surfing, like, ever. Lauren L. Hill shares the inspiring stories of the women, past and present, who define the art of surfing around the world. West of Jesus: Surfing, Science and the Origins of Beliefby Steven Kotler This book takes you on a wild, globe-trotting journey in search of big waves and even bigger answers to the question: How did surfing take over my life? Laugh-out-loud funny at times, deeply philosophical and super interesting, Kotler looks at surfing through the lens of anthropology, philosophy, neuroscience and more to reveal the spiritual side of the sport.